Dec
06

The Thrill of the Break Through

By
Surfing in Pacifica, California
Image via Wikipedia

Innovation experts usually say that the revelations, epiphanies and ahas come after a history of hard work and concentration.

After the mind and subconscious have dealt with an issue for awhile in serious contemplation, one a day bubble pushes to the surface and you give it an OMG!

I just had one of those surfing. I have been relearning over the past several months, giving it my best shot every time I could, which on good weeks is four times a week. The last week I have been going out in small surf and cold water.

Yesterday the surf was bigger and I was thrilled to give it a go. I usually start getting a little revved up as I put on my wet suit. My pulse quickens and I realize that my excitement has me going through things a little quicker and even recklessly; the result of adrenaline.

That is why I like to get my board waxed before I put on my wet suit.

Once out in the ocean I was waiting for the waves which were coming in sets with ten minute rest periods in between. I saw a nice swell building and so I paddled to it, got in front and as it built I paddled over the top and got up.

As I was riding down the face I said to myself holy sh*t. It wasn’t the “oh no” holy sh*t, it was the wow HS. It was the biggest wave I have ridden and I felt like I definitely belonged there.

I felt like telling the wave, “yes it’s me on your back, and don’t roll your eyes because I’ve got this one.”  At the end of the ride I realized that I had made a break through. Not just because it was my biggest wave, but because I was calm and confident and knew that I was going to ride it.

The next one I nosed, but so what. I realized that I had reached a new plateau because I mentally had accepted my belonging and the physical was there to match.

That is the result of effort day in and day out without ever thinking of quitting and never doubting that performance or knowledge can be improved. I do the same with my writing. I have easy times and tougher times but I just don’t quit.

Anyone can do this. The thrill of the breakthrough is definitely worth the pain of the struggle.

**

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